Коренно Плинио

Дервио и Коренно Плинио

Есть города, названия которых звучат, как магическое заклинание — Дервио, Коренно Плинио! — взмах волшебной палочки и вот вы выходите к кромке воды у синего-синего озера посреди синих-синих гор под синим-синим небом.

Ладно, шучу. От Милана до Дервио ещё предстоит добраться — почти 2 часа с пересадкой в Лекко и 6,7 евро, а до Коренно Плинио вообще на поезде не уехать — только пешком вдоль трассы. Но этот маршрут того стоит. А без посещения Коренно Плинио только пляжа Дервио было бы мало. Поехали!

Недолгая пересадка и старый указатель на железнодорожной станции.

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Короткая прогулка от станции до озера и... Ух, какой простор!

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Кажется, будто ветер гонит волны со всего озера именно на этот берег.

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Пляж в Дервио не такой уютный (как в Льерне) и зелёный (как в Колико), зато у него есть одно неоспоримое преимущество — он длинный. В этой части пляжа практически не было никого, кроме нас. И пары совсем не пугливых уток. Но из-за ветра было прохладнее, чем есть, поэтому задерживаться на пляже не имело смысла.

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Полюбовались на озёрные пейзажи. Солнце на том берегу светит крайне избирательно.

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Решили прогуляться до электростанции и замка Коренно Плинио. С этого берега сразу и не понять, где замок, а где электростанция.

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До Коренно Плинио идти, кажется, не далеко.

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А в этой части Дервио пляж уже не такой малонаселённый. Всё-таки нам повезло с первой локацией.

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Вид на Дервио и озеро Комо.

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И ещё.

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По дороге набрели на небольшую гидроэлектростанцию, похожую на замок.

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Здание выглядит старым, но при этом вполне функционирует.

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Труба для потока воды с гор?

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И немного деталей. Львы на фасаде.

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Арка над входом.

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Вообще Коренно Плинио не считается отдельным городом — это район Дервио. В это время до него практически никак не добраться общественным транспортом, нужно идти вдоль дороги.

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Схематично этот район выглядит так.

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А так выглядит замок Коренно Плинио.

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Каменная кладка высоких стен.

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И аутентичные домики вокруг.

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Первое упоминание не сколько о замке, а сколько об оборонительной крепости в Коренно относится к 1040 году. В конце XIV века произошла первая реставрация, владельцами замка стала влиятельная семья и в последующие годы замок переходил из руки в руки буквально каждое столетие и в одно время даже был занят испанцами.

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К XVIII веку замок окончательно утратил свои оборонительные функции и на его территории разбили виноградник. Посмотреть на внутреннее пространство крепости у нас не вышло, а вот прогуляться вокруг — очень даже. Наверное, так и выглядели все эти сказочные замки, а вовсе не так как на заставке Диснея.

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Ещё вокруг замка, как и подобает замку, был ров. Его зарыли в середине XIX века, благодаря чему стало возможным построить дорогу из Лекко в Колико.

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Кладка стен чем-то напомнила замок в Брешии. А как изогнулась сосна!

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В непосредственной близости от стен замка находится старинная церковь. Причём само здание храма и здание часовой башни заметно различаются как по времени постройки, так и по времени реставрации, что заметно по архитектуре.

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Рядом с входом в храм находятся склепы бывших владельцев замка.

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Они отличаются между собой по оформлению, но везде используется один и тот же герб с изображением льва и крепости.

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К известным людям Коренно Плинио можно отнести древнеримского политическоо деятеля и писателя Плиния Младшего. Он родился в Комо в I веке н. э. и, как утверждается, Коренно Плинио был назван именно в его честь. Большую часть времени он проводил в Риме, но будучи патроном Комо жертвовал большие средства на его развитие. Так на его средства в Комо была построена библиотека. Две виллы со странными названиями «Трагедия» и «Комедия» недалеко от Комо также принадлежали ему, их до сих пор  пытаются реконструировать по описаниям самого Плиния.

Гай Плиний Цецилий Секунд умер где-то в Египте. Точные даты смерти и погребения неизвестны.

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Часовая башня с колоколом при церкви в Коренно.

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И вид с другой стороны на церковь и замок.

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Но на самом деле Коренно Плинио интересен не сколько своим замком, а сам по себе — как есть. Район небольшой, но побродить по нему, обращая внимания на мелочи и детали, очень интересно.

Небольшая статуя в тени деревьев.

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Черепица, флюгер на крыше и на трубе, лиц на щипце.

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Фреска на фасаде.

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Узкие улочки здесь — самый настоящий лабиринт, сбегающий к воде. Каменным домам с виду не меньше пары веков, а брусчатке ступеней, кажется, и того больше.

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Часть стен выходит прямо в озеро.

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Лодки на берегу.

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Лодки на воде.

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И полное отсутствие суеты вокруг. Встретить туристов здесь — большая редкость.

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Коренно Плинио настолько малолюдный, что даже водяная курица свила гнездо в моторке у берега. И не просто свила, а ещё и успела высидеть там двух цыпляток, и ещё двое на подходе.

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Местных в Коренно Плинио мы видели от силы не больше десяти человек.

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А те, кого видели, предавались самому правильному здесь занятию — созерцанию всей этой красоты вокруг.

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Вид на противоположный берег озера Комо.

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И какой-то городок, выхваченный из общего пейзажа и солнечными лучами, и моей камерой.

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При случае обязательно выберетесь из Милана на озеро Комо. Дервио и Коренно Плинио — абсолютно волшебное место.

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